CHAINSAW VALUE AND REPAIR TRICKS

I will put here a list a list of tricks submitted by people who found an easy way to do things the easy way to save on time.

1- My fuel line was cracked and sucking air at the brass union inside the tank. I removed the old line which still seemed good except tor the cracked area right at the union, so I clipped it back until I had a good piece left and only 1/2 inch shorter. I then took a piece of stiff wire longer than the fuel line and bent the end so that I could feed it into the brass union. I slid the fuel line (minus filter) over the wire and pushed along its length and the fuel line popped right into place with the wire guiding it. I then pulled the wire back out. There was no way I could get my fingers in there, that's for sure. Anyway, that method was slick and I'm glad I thought of it before taking the chainsaw apart. That old P50 cuts like a madman. It has a retrofit chain brake that was added a few months after my father bought the saw in 75. That brake saved my life once. Take care, Fred Winterburn, RR#3 Ripley Ontario.

1--------------------------THE GAS/FUEL FILTER...A FEW EXISTS ...THE MOST POPULAR------------------------------------


Last there is the sediment filter wit the clear glass bowl. Make sure the piece of felt inside the bowl is clean and allows easy flow and no restriction of fuel.
2---------------------------------RECOIL STARTERS---------------------------------

Recoil starter major supplyer for chainsaw application was FAIRBANKS MORS'E.........BULLDOG.......and SCHNACKLE....... They supplied recoils to many branded saws on the market in the 50's to the late 60'S.

2-Fairbanks mors'e/bulldog repair trick.

2-On the starter recoil cup you will see 6 ovals...take a drill bit and make a grove at each one...screw back the recoil cup. 2-On the assembly...take it appart and clean or replace the clutches...... "NO OIL PLEASE".......Lubricate only the large recoil spring and the pulley shaft.If you need to resurface the tabs dont file too much...they will get too short and will be scrap. 3-Dissasembley starts from top to bottom.,left to right.



3-------------------------- Magnapull system -----------------------------------
the friction plate and the magnets if they are in good shape, is the key for a good operational recoil. Magnapull magnets system instead of spring activation.
DOGS IN FULL CATCH POSITION.WHEN THE PULLY STARTS TO SPIN THE MAGNETS WILL INDUCE A ROTATING ACTION AND WILL MOVE THE DOGS TO A FULL CLOSE CATCHING POSITION AND WHEN PULL CORD IS SET BACK IN PLACE, OPPOSITE MOTION WILL CAUSE THE MAGNETS TO PUSH THE DOGS IN A RESTING POSITION IF THE ENGINE HAS STARTED.


DOGS RESTING OFF POSITION.DOGS RETRACTED.NOTE THE 2 MAGNETS HOLES.

FRICTION CUP WITH MAGNETS.

MAGNETS WITH DOGS CATCHING FOR ENGINE START.

CENTRE CLUCH AND DOGS RETRACTED FOR ENGINE RUN.

4-------------------------------AUTOSHARP CHAIN---------------------------------

auto-sharp system DESCRIPTION: THE AUTOSHARP SYSTEM WOULD ALLOW FILING OF THE CHAIN AND KEPT IT RAZOR SHARP CUTTING BY USING A DIAMOND STONE MOUNTED ON A KNOB AND BY SLIGHTLY PUSHING ON IT, IT WOULD FILE THE TOP CUTTERS THUS AVOIDING ANY HAND FILING ON THE CHAIN. MAKE SURE THE ROUND STONE IS IN GOOD SHAPE TO GIVE AN ACCURATE CUT.


This is the biggest chain i have ever seen. It measures 1 5/8 inch between 3 rivets or 26/16 inches divided by 2= 13/16 pitch........Top chain is a .404 so you can see the size.



5--------------CHAINSAW VALUE ----------------


a chainsaw value ???the big question!!!!!!!!!
Chainsaw value...This is the big question no collector's want to answer since there is no real answer. Many factors can influence the price of a saw such as the overall mechanical condition of the saw, the quality of the paint and decals, the saw is a runner or can only be used for parts, parts are missing or broken to name only a few.

You cannot put a price tag on a chainsaw and if you intend to sell one dont think that you are sitting on a gold mine...........

In a collector's point of view what is the saw worth for you "THE BUYER"??? You need to figure out what it is worth to you. As a collector, i cant know that............. This could be influenced by a sentimental value, a saw that was own by a relative. Selling or buying it for a friend and more.....Only a transaction that will make both parties happy will occur if you have an idea of what you want for your saw............. otherwise it is just like buying anything. If you have a price in mind to sell a saw.........tell the buyer your asking price or preferably "ASK FOR OFFERS" and only then you will find who might have an interest and the saw may sell.

I have many time seen this question raised and asked to me and waisted my time to give prices and made offers for people that were only "fishing" and even after we agreed on a price only to find out that they dissapeared and communication was stopped and the saw was already sold to someone else.

I am not a saw seller....just a collector that wants to keep this history alive.


6------------------------------------BENT HOSES -----------------------------------

Trick you might know that can make a difference....when replacing "TYGON" fuel lines aftermarket, instead of "OEM"..... sometimes you end up with a line that will kink over time.... the quick permanent fix is to insert a small round spring of the desired length inside and it will never happened again......Thank you!!!!!



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